Foodies on Menorca
C.M./Maó - Biel Morro Martí (Maó, 1964), married and the father of two children, has been secretary of the Maó Fishermen’s Guild for almost four decades, a position that has marked a large part of his life. A direct witness to all the transformations in the sector, he has navigated constant change and increasingly demanding regulations. Since 1986, he has been at the helm with constant, discreet dedication that is essential to the day-to-day running of the collective.
How many boats and what types of fishing does the guild currently represent?
The guild currently has fifteen small-scale fishing boats, three shellfishing boats and three trawlers. Although the fleet has gradually shrunk over recent years, it is currently in a relatively stable situation. When I started, there were four trawlers and seventy-five small-scale fishing boats, many of which were semi-professional and combined fishing with other activities, a very common reality in Menorca. Today, by contrast, all the vessels are fully dedicated to fishing activity.
What is the general situation of the fishing sector in Maó at the moment? What are the main concerns of fishermen?
The main challenge facing the sector is the lack of generational renewal: there are not enough young people to replace the fishermen who retire. Paradoxically, the fishing grounds have never been so well preserved. The reduction in fishing effort has favoured the regeneration of resources, a reality that the president of the Balearic Federation, Pep Bonnín, sums up as follows: the sector may end up dying of success; there will be plenty of fish, but no fishermen. Both prawns and fish are in good health, and demand exceeds supply. Outside the summer season, it is not feasible to raise prices, as Menorcan consumers would not be able to afford them during the winter.
I imagine the other major problem is the demands from Europe...
Nowadays, fishing regulations are extraordinarily complex to comply with. However, despite the obstacles and successive corrections —such as those resulting from the introduction of the electronic logbook on board or the catch-weighing system—, over time the measures have gradually been adjusted to the reality of the sector. A margin of tolerance has now been established, while the corresponding legal correction process moves forward.
How is the reduction in fishing days and the catch limits imposed by the European Union affecting the Maó fishing fleet?
As regards fishing effort days, activity has also had to be reduced slightly. The trawlers have been pacing themselves: in the low season, instead of going out five days a week, they go out four, largely because consumption itself dictates this. It is not a situation that is experienced as a major problem. In fact, it has not been necessary to stop the fleet for long periods in order to comply with the regulations. It is true that fishing days have been gradually reduced, but progressively and by adapting both to weather conditions and to market demand, which often already prevents boats from fishing on all the days planned.
Has the sector adapted?
The sector has ended up adapting. Although companies have slightly reduced their activity, turnover has remained at good levels. This new dynamic has also had a positive impact on workers, who have often appreciated being able to go out to sea only four days in winter instead of five, with a better work-life balance and less physical strain.
And as for catch limits?
Prawn fishing has been more clearly affected. Although the platform is in very good condition and there is abundance, the establishment of a quota makes little sense. In summer, when demand is highest and it would be the ideal time to increase catches and income, the limits prevent this, forcing boats to pace themselves throughout the year. Just as lobster is key for small-scale fishing boats, prawns are the fundamental species for trawlers.
What role does lobster fishing play in Maó?
In Maó, lobster is the most important species. This past year we caught 2,691 kilos. Some boats, however, start the season a little later than in Fornells, usually between May and June, while there they are already fully underway from April. The activity is therefore more staggered: first, fishing for fish is prioritised and, later, lobster fishing.
Does local seafood and fish production —such as lobster— manage to cover demand, especially in summer, or is it necessary to rely on imported products?
More than enough. That is why a lot of lobster often comes in from other areas and ends up being sold as Menorcan lobster. Even so, it is an almost inevitable situation.
Where does this lobster come from?
It mainly comes from Africa, especially Morocco. It looks similar to local lobster, but it is not as tasty.
Do you receive enough support or aid from the administration, for example for subsidies, infrastructure or projects?
Yes, the truth is that we cannot complain. For years we have had access to GALP funds for investments, both for the guild and for its maintenance, which is very necessary.
What is the guild’s view on the balance between environmental sustainability and economic sustainability in current fishing regulations?
Europe is a problem, because its environmental and catch-related approach only takes environmental groups into account. Meanwhile, we are tired of taking biologists from the Oceanographic Institute out weekly on small-scale fishing boats, and they confirm that the platform of Menorca, and of the Balearic Islands in general, is in very good condition.
What do you identify as the main causes of the lack of generational renewal in the sector? What measures do you think would be effective to ensure that young people become interested in fishing as a profession?
The first obstacle is bureaucracy. To work in fishing, you first have to complete several courses: obtain basic fisher-seafarer training and pass a medical examination, among other requirements. All this discourages many people, because if tomorrow you want to work as a waiter, carpenter or builder, you can start almost immediately. In the past, the military and seafarers allowed someone to accompany a fisherman for a while to see whether they liked the trade; only afterwards, if they liked it, would they begin the full training. Today, with all the current requirements, many people do not even try to test out the profession.
In your opinion, what are the main challenges and opportunities for Maó’s fishing sector over the next 5-10 years?
The main challenges remain the same: being allowed to work without more obstacles or restrictions being imposed; finding staff in order to go out to sea —we currently have seafarers from Senegal, Morocco, etc., as it is very difficult to find national staff—; and ensuring that there is no shortage of fish or seafood.
How does Menorca’s gastronomic tourism —and specifically the consumption of products such as lobster or prawns— affect local fishing in Maó?
We have said it many times in meetings: the promotion of local produce and gastronomic tourism in Menorca would be badly affected if local boats could not fish or if there were no fishermen. The promotion of zero-kilometre produce —coming to Menorca to eat lobster stew or local prawns— would lose its meaning if these products had to come from Africa.
Foodies on Menorca
Foodies on Menorca
Foodies on Menorca
Read more