Foodies on Menorca
Bep Al·lès/Ciutadella - When summer arrives in Menorca, there is one preparation that, generation after generation, continues to occupy a privileged place on household tables, in traditional bakeries and at family afternoon snacks: the coca. Whether sweet or savoury, this product is much more than a popular recipe. It is a living expression of Menorcan cuisine, an example of how seasonal produce can be put to good use, and one of the island’s great symbols of gastronomic identity.
The Diccionari Català-Valencià-Balear defines coca as a dough made from flour, kneaded and baked with oil or lard, generally oval or round in shape, and topped with a wide variety of ingredients. This apparent simplicity is precisely what has allowed coca to evolve over the centuries, adapting to the produce available at different times of the year and becoming an extraordinarily versatile preparation.
For decades, cocas represented an intelligent and economical way of feeding an entire family. With a base of flour, yeast, water and fat—usually pork lard in savoury versions and Menorcan butter in many sweet ones—families could make use of vegetables from the garden, seasonal fruit or cured meats that had reached a more advanced stage of maturation, as in the traditional risen cocas made with aged sobrasada. It is another fine example of the resourceful cooking that has always characterised Menorcan gastronomy.
Yet speaking about cocas also means speaking about an extraordinary wealth of recipes. In Menorca, traditional savoury cocas coexist with those made from puff pastry, the coques bambes—known in Ciutadella as Sant Joan ensaimadas—the delicate coques de congret, prepared with eggs, sugar and starch, and the popular potato cocas, whose especially light texture comes from the addition of boiled potato.
However, the passage of time has also left some casualties behind. Certain preparations have now practically disappeared from Menorcan bakeries, including coques de xuia, coca beta made with barley flour, coca de ca made with bran, and the old coques dels Darrers Dies associated with Carnival celebrations. These recipes form part of the island’s collective gastronomic memory and explain its social and culinary evolution better than any history book.
One of the great documentary sources on this tradition is Die Insel Minorca, by Archduke Ludwig Salvator of Austria. By the end of the nineteenth century, he had already documented as many as thirty-two varieties of coca consumed in Menorca. Among them were preparations that have since disappeared, such as coques caldes, sweet potato cocas, Easter cocas, and others made with asparagus, wild mushrooms or foraged herbs such as colissos.
This extraordinary diversity remains one of the great treasures of Menorcan cuisine. One example is the book Sa cuina des poble de Menorca. Rebosteria i pastisseria, which brings together almost two hundred preparations linked to this gastronomic universe: dozens of savoury and sweet cocas, puff-pastry varieties, coques de congret and coques bambes, all bearing witness to a culinary tradition that remains very much alive.
At a time when industrial pastries are becoming increasingly common in everyday eating habits, championing coca also means supporting a healthier, more sustainable gastronomic model that is firmly rooted in the land. Preparing them with local flour, xeixa wheat, and seasonal fruit and vegetables means supporting artisan bakeries, farmers and Menorcan producers, while preserving a culinary heritage that forms part of the island’s identity.
Every coca that comes out of a Menorcan oven tells a story: the story of a cuisine that has transformed simplicity into excellence and continues to prove that the best flavour is often the most authentic. Perhaps the time has come to revive an old custom and remember that, in Menorca, there are days when a coca says more about the land than any other dish. Less industrial pastry and more cocas: a commitment to local produce, tradition and the future of our gastronomy.